Restaurant Review: Dinings

First things first: book ahead. Dinings is tiny.

If the decor was any less utilitarian, it might even be called bijou; as such, tiny will have to do. On a freezing January evening, I felt for the diners hunched at the sushi bar, buffeted by an icy blast every time the door swung open. There's seating along the bar for six(ish) if you huddle and, given the temperature outside, huddling they were.

Downstairs was warmer, both in heat and ambiance. Described on the website as a 'bunker style dining room', I came expecting rough concrete, metal stools, and a few tins of baked beans for that authentic air-raid feel. Instead, we got white walls, slatted-wood partitions, and clean-cut furniture. Our table was nestled alongside two others in a not-so-private alcove; definitely not a place then for claustrophobes, international espionage, or proposing with less than a 47% chance she'll say yes.

 

It's no surprise that the menu, coming from ex-Nobu chef Tomonari Chiba and described as 'sushi and Japanese tapas', serves up a modern and unorthodox take on its subject material. Most intriguing was the chalkboard special of miso bouillabaisse with lobster, but I left the ordering this evening to my dining companion (who was treating after having lost a bet relating to fennel -- don't ask).

Wagyu beef (is there any other type at the moment?) tataki came drizzled in ponzu sauce and porcini oil, followed by 'small bomb coriander with white fish and chili lemon fish sauce'. "What makes it a bomb?" we asked our possibly-Spanish waitress, who replied on the lines of: "Because the taste, er, explodes, see?" Explode it did, slivers of sashimi drenched in a potently tart dressing.

Octopus carpaccio and sautéed scallops, both with a yuzu garlic sauce, were good but mildly over-salted (and bear in mind I love salt). The fresh water eel and foie gras sushi roll - inside-out rolls topped with a seared piece of foie gras -- melted in heavy-yet-heavenly mouthfuls. Shrimp tempura rolls and the spicy california special were more pedestrian, while the chu-toro and scallop nigiri were top-notch, as expected.

A layered black-sesame crème caramel nicely rounded off the evening, along with sake that slipped so smoothly down the throat, I may even consider starting to like the stuff. Green tea was served in an earthy ceramic teapot, unfortunately designed to be poured exclusively by right-handers.

"That's rather sinister," said my friend.

Ha.  Ha.  Ha.

Verdict: Not a cheap eat, but well worth the wander up to Edgware Road. Don't forget to check out the specials.

For prices, check out the menu here. I'd guestimate £30-40pp, excluding drinks and service.

Dinings
22 Harcourt St
London W1H 4HH
020 7723 0666
www.dinings.co.uk

Comments

[The London Foodie]

I have read some good reviews of this place but none as evocative as yours, I must add this to my hit list. Thanks.

Luiz @ The London Foodie

[JenJen]

Hi Luiz,

Awww thanks - high praise indeed! Do let me know what you think of the place when you make it there =)

JenJen

[Wild Boar]

Sounds good. The wife has been interested in this place for a while so we might pay a visit soon after your positivity.

I'm quite dubious of the fresh water eel + foie gras sushi though; does the foie gras overpower the eel? I bet I'll try if I do go though haha.

[catty]

MY FAVOURITE JAPANESE RESTAURANT IN LONDON!!! Isn't the wagyu beef sushi just to die for? I can't get enough of it, even though it's £9 for two portions (ouch). Also love the black sesame creme caramel, served like a latte with coffee flavoured froth. Just amazing.